We were the third of five cruise ships (counting the Windstar) to arrive
this morning. During the high summer season there are as many as 15 ships in
at a time.
Rome has a population of 4 million, and it is estimated that there are an
extra 2.5 million here this weekend to witness the sanctification of Popes
John Paul the 2nd and John the 23rd. Since I had been to all the "must see"
places in Rome I chose to head to the countryside and less traveled places.
First stop was the Catacombs of Domitilla and Basilica of the Martyrs Nereus
and Achilleus. It consists of eleven miles of tunnels and many un-restored
frescoes. Many of the tombs have been broken into by thieves over the
centuries and others have been removed to protect the dignity of dead. In
areas not open to the public there remain many still sealed and tucked into
the niches in the walls.
Next stop was to the Appian Way - a four hundred mile long road that it took
the Romans 100 years to build since they had to conquer the tribes along the
way.
Then it was time to head to the Monte Due Torri farmhouse in the Albani
Hills for a farm to table meal. The olive oil came from their olive trees,
the wine from their grapes, the bacon from their hogs, their own cheese and
homemade cakes and pasta. We were greeted upon arrival by the 86 year old
husband who still gets up every morning at 5AM, like a true farmer, to make
sure everyone else gets up and supervise the workers. We were also treated
to a pasta making demonstration by his 84 year old wife, who also talked
almost as fast as her hands worked.
Last stop was to the town of Albano Laziale where the Stato delia Citta del
Vaticano is located. This is a lovely village with spectacular views of Lago
di Albano. Unfortunately, since Pope Francis has decided not to use this
place the local businesses are suffering and begging the Vatican to open the
property as a museum.
Long day again tomorrow with a 7AM start.
Oh, and by the way, the Captain was wrong - NO RAIN today!
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